The barrel is of course the heart of any rifle. It doesn't matter how good all the other elements of the rifle system are, if the barrel and chamber isn't up to scratch then it just won't shoot well..
There are a number of different methods used by smiths these days to fit barrels. Barrel fitting methods have come a long way in the last 20 years and the days of just setting up the barrels between centers for turning and then setting and chambering on the steady rest are long gone.
Most accuracy smiths are now working with the barrel set up through the headstock and this is the way that I do it. I use specially made aluminum collars to hold the barrel in a 4 jaw chuck while the outboard end is supported by another aluminum collar held in a specially made spider chuck. This way the barrel bore can be dialed in to run exactly true with the lathe center line.
To dial barrels in true to the axis of the lathe I use high quality Interapid and Mitutoyo 0.0005” lever type dial test indicators with a 2.5” and 3.0" long stylus. This allows me to reach right up inside the bore and directly indicate the lands and grooves of the barrel. This method has several advantages over other indirect methods such as using piloted taper gauge pins etc.
Firstly it is a direct contact reading. The trueness achieved with Piloted taper gauge pins (or similar inserted up into the barrel) rely on the precision and straightness of the gauge pin its self, the precision of the pilot, and then it’s fit on the pin and in the bore. Even small errors in all of the above tend to accumulate and are then greatly magnified buy the length of the gauge pin.
Using a long probe indicator removes all of those potential errors because it’s directly in contact with the surface of the bore. Secondly using a probe also allows me to indicate both the tops of the lands and bottom of the grooves. The consistency of the land and groove depth is a great indicator of the quality of the barrel being used. All the lands should be a consistent height and grooves a consistent depth. Barrels are dialed in as close as I can achieve with that particular barrel. Every barrel is different but really good quality barrels can be dialed in to within 0.0002” or 0.005mm.
Once dialed true the barrel tennon is turned with high quality Carbide insert tooling and threading is done with “full form” carbide threading inserts. The use of full form inserts ensure that threads are always the same correct form every time. Chambers are then pre drilled to remove most of the material and then taper bored true again with a carbide micro boring bar. This normally leaves about 0.020” or 0.5mm of material for the reamer to remove.
I only use live piloted reamers from Pacific Tool and Gauge in the USA. Using a correct fitting live pilot is absolutely vital in achieving a precisely centered and sized chamber. I will not use solid pilot reamers, ever! Reamers are pushed with a shop made floating reamer holder to ensure a correctly sized chamber. Once finished, reamed chambers are polished to give a smooth uniform finish and then inspected for trueness with the dial indicator and the surface finish visually checked with a quality hawk eye borescope.
I will fit and chamber all barrel makes and sizes from 18” length and up, and up to 2” dia.
See Below for my current reamer list. I am expanding the list all the time so if you can't find the chambering your looking for, by all means contact me and we can order a reamer in for you.
I use and highly recommend Maddco barrels..






